Hvordan velge seg ut en katte, det er gode katter og dårlige katter.
En catamaran har den fordelen at den er veldig
stødig, enkel å seile alene, enkel å fortøye og har
god plass, ikke minst uteplass.
Hvor stor cat skal du ha? Det sies at 42` er den
beste størrelsen på båt for atlanterhavskryssing. Lengden
passer atlanterhavs dønningene best (utsagn fra skippere som ofte krysser med
forskjellige båter).
I forhold til en enskrogs båt, kan du legge på 10`. For å få samme plass som
i en 42`cat, må du opp i 52`
med en enskrogsbåt.
Tryggeste valget er å holde seg til kjente catamaran
byggere. Det finnes produsenter, som prøver å lage
og markedsføre "nye" båter, men lagd etter gamle tegninger av
ubrukbare båter.
Det er en rekke av bra produsenter:
Foutaine Pajot, Lagoon, Privelege, Dean, Leopard mm
Hvis man ikke kan velge det siste
og det beste, er det en del kriterier å holde seg til ved
valg av catamaran?
Seiler man innaskjærs og i beskyttet farvann,
duger det meste. Men, skal du ut på åpent hav, er det
forskjell på båter.
Eric Smith har skrevet noen gode tips om kattevalg i "good cat / bad cat". Den er gjengitt under:
Eric Smith
What do I mean by that?
I don't mean a boat is bad quality, or doesn't sail well. What I'm talking about
here is what makes
a catamaran well suited for long distance cruising with a good sized load aboard.
What makes a
boat suitable for extended stays aboard. Let's take a look...
Why it matters...
The sun doesn't always shine. The seas aren't
always calm. Find out why it's important to have nets forward that let
the waves through. That are lighter and reduce pitching. And much more...
What
are you doing for the rest of your life?
It
all depends on what you're planning to do! Staying at the dock, venturing out
for weekends in protected waters? More ambitious? Coastal cruising? Or are you
combining coastal cruising and watching the weather, with serious offshore
cruising? Your plans affect what you need and you need to plan for the most
adventurous cruise you plan.
How do we know what's required? Because
we arrange delivery of many boats every year--trans-Atlantic, and East
Coast to the Caribbean. We talk to the captains who have sailed all kinds of
boats. We've talked to the designers. Visited the plants. What I'm sharing with
you here is the distillation of 100's of hours of talks based on hands on
experience with some of the most knowledgeable sailors out there in all
conditions.
This
discussion is directed towards offshore sailing. But even if you only want the
capability, here is where you'll find out about what to look for. Remember, even
if you don't plan to venture into long distance cruising, the person you
eventually sell to may want to so your selection now, may affect your boat's
resale later. Why cut off any market
potential? A "Good Cat" can sell inshore AND offshore.
Eric Smith President
"When
taking care of our clients is our #1 priority, all other priorities become
much easier to attain."
Good Cat, Bad Cat?
Is it built for inshore or offshore sailing? With the advent of new technology the high tech
necessary for ocean cruising catamarans is now affordable. The appeal of
comfortable sailing without healing, of privacy only attainable with good
separation of living and sleeping spaces, and a panoramic view with
extraordinary deck space--not to mention shoal draft... Catamarans have come of
age. (If one has any doubts, he simply hasn't visited a boat show lately!)
As with any new phenomenon, there are plenty of promoters anxious to jump on the
latest trend--whether they know anything about what's required or not. This
paper is designed to highlight the 4 important distinctions that will help you
understand the builders intent. Is he offering an inshore or offshore Cat? The 4
important criteria to consider (aside from overall quality and integrity) are:
1.
Stability. Beam to length ratio and Static stability.
2.
Pitching. The comfort factor
3.
Bridge deck clearance.
4.
Load carrying capacity.
These factors and 6 others are discussed in great detail in our 8 page brochure Compare-a-Cat. This brochure and it's complimentary computer
program scientifically analyze the 10 most important factors when comparing
Serious Offshore Cats.
Stability...
A
catamaran generally has no ballast. It primarily depends on beam and individual
hull buoyancy for stability. The wider it is, the more stability--however, at
some point excessive beam becomes unmanageable. In addition a narrower hull is
more easily depressed and prone to tripping in heavy seas. The same wider body
hull that gives you better load carrying ability, also gives you more total
stability. Of course at some point, you
lose performance... Finding the balance is the key.
Virtually
all of the experienced builders, especially the European builders who must sail
their boats transatlantic to their bases in the Caribbean, have settled on a
minimum length to beam ratio (L/B) of approximately 50%. That's a 20' beam on a
40' boat. As the boat gets larger, over 50' or so, you can
back off from this ratio a bit and still have adequate stability. These
same experienced builders put enough beam into the individual hulls to give more
than adequate load carrying ability. One sign of an older
design (often resurrected
these days and promoted as new) is narrow individual hulls, sometimes supplanted
by (needed) extra beam because the hulls no longer have the required buoyancy.
(By the way, you can often recognize these designs from inside because the
berths will be high and spanning the bridge deck--the hulls don't have enough
volume to carry 4 full size double berths! Watch out!)
Static
stability is a measure of a boats stability. The factor was developed by sign
builders (what strength wind will blow our sign over?!) A bad cat (for offshore)
might have a static stability in the 25 knot range. A good Cat in the 50-60 knot
range. This is a static measure. In reality, the boat would slide sideways and
round up if you were foolish enough to leave all sail up and this would
approximately double the figure.
Pitching...
Imagine two children on a sea-saw. If they're both near
the center of rotation (A):
d broken!
Pitching
is caused by too much weight in the ends of the boat. Accommodations and storage
areas that extend much forward of the mast. Solid fiberglass decking forward
(Fiberglass is heavy compared to netting--that's one reason you see netting on
all serious cats!) Engines and storage too far aft. Not enough stern or bow hull
area extending aft and forward of the nacelle. See the drawings--(B)
Pitching
can make your life miserable. Tire you out so you take unnecessary chances.
Dampen your appetite. However, solid decking forward does more than just
contribute to pitching. In offshore conditions when you might be semi-surfing
down waves; your bow can overtake the wave system ahead of you and plunge into
the wave. Nets simply let the water through and allow the bows to recover. Solid
decking can trip the boat and cause a catastrophic pitch pole--mid-ocean.
Netting forward rather than solid decking is crucial for an offshore cat--for
comfort and for safety!
(B) Good Cat, left...
Long
overhangs fore and aft. Accommodations concentrated in center of boat (weight
kept out of the ends). Beam/Length ratio 58%, Static stability about 55 knots.
Bad
Cat, right...
Short
overhangs. Solid decking forward. (Heavy, and doesn't let the water through--can
trip in large ocean wave, surfing situations.) Accommodations spread into the
ends. Beam length ratio of 46% or less, Static stability about 23 knots.
Bridge
deck clearance...
This is generally referred to as the height from the
water to the underside of the nacelle. If it is too low, waves will slap and
bang under the living accommodations. Sometimes literally knocking the plates
off the table in a poor design. The noise prevents sleeping. But I amplify this
view. When I talk about bridge deck clearance I want to be sure there is
adequate volume for smooth
passage
of seas between the hulls and also that the separation between the hulls isn't exaggerated.
Imagine pushing two
pipes through the water as in example (Cross sect. A&B). The pipe with the
small hole must create much more resistance; literally forcing a wall of water
before it. Pipe A easily allows the water through.
You need the combination of:
A
good cat, left,
has a higher bridge deck clearance, with no protuberances interrupting the water
flow. The wider beam between the hulls also contributes to uninhibited water
flow between the hulls.
Note the difference for the bad
cat on the right. We have heard this as one of the biggest negatives from
owner's who owned boats like those on the right. This is also one of the biggest
reasons for them selling. (This style is typical of many of the older generation
of boats, and also some new ones where marketing types take over from the
designers).
Why not too much beam? Have you ever observed the wake coming off the bows of a
boat? (Actually if you watch a power boat, the effect of a heavier boat at
higher speed exaggerates the effect I'm talking about.) The wave curves up and
away at an angle about 150 degrees back from the bow. If you measured diagonally
outwards from the bow, you would see that the wave increases in height as it
curves away from the bow. Keep this in mind.
Now, imagine an older design catamaran with narrower hulls (The waterline beam
of each hull being narrow.) The hulls don't have the buoyancy to give the
stability that comes from buoyancy (see above) so the designer is forced to gain
stability the only way he can--he increases the overall beam. The trade off?
Several and all bad:
Why would anyone design a boat this way? The answer is that today they
probably wouldn't. However some charter companies or marketing companies trying
to take advantage of today's catamaran popularity, and wanting to keep costs
down choose older designs whose tooling cost is already amortized (or choose
inexperienced designers) primarily to reduce the cost of the boat. The problem
is that a bad design will always be a bad design and the cost will long be
forgotten while the discomfort will linger...
Remember, charter companies ask designers for parameters suitable for people
staying on-board for short times and equipment (load carrying capacity) needs
are minimal for these short times. These boats, typically only need to sail in a
50 mile circle.
Whether you're looking to use our investment program to pay your boat off early,
or getting it for some serious cruising we take the long view. We represent up
to date designs that feature boats with the load carrying ability you need for
care free, serious cruising (This is my only advertising plug in this piece, but
I feel I've given you enough information to earn the right.)
Load Carrying capacity...
When
you sail offshore you will carry 1,000's of pounds of extra water, fuel, stores,
safety equipment and amenities. (Whether you plan to or not, consider resale
value--the next owner may want the option!) Here's what manufacturers do for
marketing, that reduces load carrying capacity:
Summary...
Whether
you actually go offshore or not, you may meet bad weather conditions. Your
comfort, enjoyment and safety, (and ultimately resale value) are dependent on
proper design.
Most of the criteria I have shown here, you can easily
evaluate yourself. If what others tell you doesn't make sense, or if what I tell
you doesn't make sense, then make your own evaluation. There's no magic here.
Good design really does make sense and you can see the telltale
signs.
Frequently
Asked Questions...
1.
How
fast are they?
They
do 10, 12, 15, 20 knots! Is this what you’ve heard from salesmen at the boat
show? The truth is, a well designed catamaran behaves much like a light
displacement mono hull. With many delivery trips under our belt, I can
confidently say that, on average, on a passage with winds from a variety of
points you will average passage speeds about 20% greater than a similar sized, cruising
mono hull. Having said this, here are some best cases: We have averaged over 14
on a Fountaine Pajot 35 for a 6 hour period going to Newport-off-shore. The
Fountaine Pajot 42, recently delivered transatlantic, rode the front edge of the
most recent hurricane with 30 knot winds and averaged almost 16 for 24 hours! (Because
storms normally move at 10-12 knots, a fast catamaran has the capability to run
away from them-an important safety feature!)
2.
Why
do the so called Ocean going cats have such high freeboard?
In
the Ocean, you need bridge deck clearance. That is, the height of the center
part of the boat between the hulls must be as high as possible to avoid wave
pounding. Wave pounding on a lesser boat, at the least, prohibits sleeping on
overnight passages (Ever try sleeping inside a drum being pounded on?), at the
worst, we’ve seen lesser boats where the bulkheads have literally been knocked
loose. Also, the blending shape of the underbody is important. Rounded
connections and smooth transitions soften wave action much like a shock
absorber.
1.
Will
a Cat go to windward?
Today’s
modern, well designed Cat, with fin keels, will point about as high as a
comparable, good cruising, mono hull. They readily tack through 90 degrees
without any need to back wind the jib. Having said this, if you point as high as
a mono hull, your speed will also be about like a mono hull. The great increases,
and better VMG’s are achieved by footing off a bit. Get a good set of polars. Experiment. You will gain a 20% advantage overall, and as much as 50% or
more on a reach!
2.
Why
won’t anyone recommend a furling mainsail?
A
cat is very dependent on a large roach. A fully battened, full-shaped mainsail
works best. The jib serves more as a foil to direct the air flow ( consequently
you don’t need a large jib.) This makes the boat easy to sail and tack, and
very powerful. This type of sail would need to be excessively flattened and
compromised to make it possible to furl it in the mast boom.
3.
Why
do some boats have center pods?
(An
extra hull that literally dips in the water.) This is a capitulation. If overall
construction is too heavy, the beam is too narrow, and/or the bows are too heavy
a center pod is necessary to give adequate buoyancy and interior volume. No
serious Ocean going Cat is designed with this feature. Look at the world’s
best!
4.
Isn’t
the load carrying capability of a Cat less than a mono hull?
Yes. If you overload a
Cat performance will be reduced to that of a comparable sized monohull ( however,
you still have a bright open saloon, privacy in the sleeping areas, shoal draft
and all of the other advantages of a Cat.) With today’s modern equipment,
however, you can keep the weight down when planning long periods aboard.
Water-makers reduce the need to carry large water tanks. Light weight
generators, air conditioning with air-handlers, and other types of modern
equipment allow you to bring comfort along, without excess weight.
5.
What
about safety?
I
sail/sell both mono hulls and catamarans. Both have pros and cons, but all
things considered I think the scales tip in favor of catamarans. The main reason
I say this is that the most likely problem at sea for either type is not
capsizing, but rather running into debris or a whale that punches a hole in a
hull. A 6" gash in a monohull has been known to sink it, literally within
seconds! The same gash in a Cat would limit water intrusion to one of several
watertight compartments. Not only wouldn't you sink, you could continue sailing
to a repair yard! More serious damage might stop you, but your unsinkable cat
would be an easy find for rescuers after you set off your EPIRB.
1.
What
about turning over?
An
ocean going cat, well designed, with a 50% (or greater) beam to length ratio, is
unlikely to turn over. These boats are designed with a static stability in
excess of 60 knots.
What’s
static stability?
A simple measure developed by highway sign builders of what wind speed it would
take (based on surface area) to blow a roadside sign over. On a Cat, this is a
simple measure but gives some idea of the enormous stability. A Cat with a 60
knot static stability factor would actually have a much higher factor in a
dynamic situation. A 60 knot puff would actually cause the boat to slide
sideways. Some of the force would be translated into forward motion. This would
probably increase the dynamic factor to over 100 knots. If you were unobservant
enough to have full sail up in such conditions, the rig would probably break
(like having a fuse in an electrical system) before the boat would capsize!
So
why do you see pictures of upside down multi hulls? Simple. If a mono hull flips
and fills with water the evidence sinks and the occupants are either never heard
from again, or are located in a tiny life raft. A turtle, still floating racing
Cat makes a great photo opportunity!
In the ocean with storm
conditions you must slow the boat down. If you don’t, the boat will surf
faster than the wave system and literally plunge into a wave front, tripping the
boat and causing it to flip over-not capsize. In storm waves, a prudent skipper,
on cruising cat where safety rather than speed is the priority, will reduce sail
and, if necessary, employ a drogue. Racer’s, on the other hand, are pushing
the limits and sometimes flip. Then, because of the unsinkable characteristic
there is a great photo-opportunity when the rescuers arrive seeing a lone sailor
standing in the inverted multi hull waving at them. Of course the cat racer is
much better off with access (through the reentry hatches) to his food, water,
stores, and safety equipment, and with a huge platform for the rescuers to find!
NOTE: I like to compare this situation to your car leaving the 65mph expressway
and entering a 25 mph exit ramp. Sure, you can push to maybe even 40 (depending
on the ramp and your car!) but at some point, exiting at too high a speed will
cause your car to lose control and possibly roll over. The same thing with cats
if you're not prudent enough--just as you are in your car--to slow down!
2.
If
I have mono hull experience, will I be able to handle a Cat?
The
best way for me to answer, is to explain how we handle 100's of clients who have
mono hull experience and want to charter a Cat. In this case, we find that if
they have had experience on a similar sized mono hull, they can get the hang of
it with about an hour special instruction. If their experience is on the light
side, we suggest a captain for the first day.
What's
the primary difference that you have to learn? Under power, handling twin
engines. It's actually easier, but you have to learn to maneuver with just the
throttle/shift levers and not the rudder! You can actually make the boat turn in
place, and go sideways once you get the hang of it. No more panic backing or
maneuvering into tight slips!
The
second issue is a little better understanding of the sailing principal of VMG.
That is, in a Cat, your Velocity Made Good to windward is better when you don't
point up as high. You sail a little further, but a lot faster and get there
faster than a comparable mono hull.
Finally
on the issue of safety. With a cat, you virtually can't capsize with wind alone
(See Good cat/Bad Cat for more on static stability), and because there is
virtually no heel as the wind increases (you simply go faster and faster...) you
eventually overpower the boat with the risk of some weak link in the rigging
letting go--an expensive lesson! For our charterers, we ask that you sail by the
numbers. That is, We tell you the times to put in the first reef (about 18-20K
of apparent wind) the second (about 28-30K.) etc. We provide wind speed
instruments which provide wind speed capability, and make sure that you know how
to use them!
When
you purchase a new or used Cat from us, your BYA broker or one of our captains
will be happy to spend a day or more with you to make you comfortable in this
new world of catamaran sailing!
3.
Isn't
it hard to find dockage?
This
was, perhaps, one of our biggest surprises when we started getting involved with
Cats. What we found was that when you're a transient (going up and down the
coast or cruising long distance) you generally are offered a berth on the
outside of "T" docks--no problem with cats here. (By the way, we have
also found that the prices for transient cats is the same per foot cost as for
mono hulls!)
In
many cases, the easiest thing to do is to take a mooring or anchor out. Your Cat
is such a stable platform that it doesn't rock and roll with wakes or surge. The
ventilation is excellent in a more open area (away from a closed in marina) as
most serious cats are specifically targeted for sailing in tropic areas so their
ventilation is extremely well thought out. Finally, dinghy davits with the
dinghy nestled securely between the hulls, allows for a large, hard bottomed
dinghy (water taxi) making it easy to move back and forth to shore.
If
you do need to be in a marina we've found a couple of common themes. New marinas
often have large slips or alongside tie ups for large power boats that also work
for cats. Many marinas have space up near the bulkhead that is gradually being
filled in by erosion. Often you see small power boats docked here. We have had
excellent success placing catamarans, with their shoal draft, in these
spaces--often for lower rates than normal slips!
Finally, (maybe this is
unique to the Chesapeake) we find that many older marinas have slips designed 20
years ago when 40' mono hulls had 9' beams. Today's 12, 13, and 14' beams just
won't fit. We've been able to have yards pull center pilings and create larger
slips that can accommodate cats or larger mono hulls.
All
and all, this just hasn't been the problem we thought it would be, and, to date,
no owner that we sold a cat to has had a problem.
4.
How big a boat do I need to do a transatlantic? (Or
other offshore cruise.)
Generally, if the boat meets all of the best of the criteria described
here, 35' is about the minimum size for a transatlantic. Why do I say this?
Because every year we deliver several boats transatlantic, as well as many more
from the East Coast to the Caribbean. The captains who do this all the time,
tell us a well designed 35 (like the Fountaine Pajot Tobago) is the smallest
boat they will even consider.
As the boat gets larger, two
elements come into play. Longer waterlines make for a more comfortable motion
more nearly matching the wave period of ocean waves and, the load carrying
ability increases.
We've
all heard of small (some under 10'!) boats, unprepared boats and even outright
dangerous boats making successful crossings--but here I'm talking about comfort
and safety for real world sailors who are not just performing a stunt.
1.
So
can you sum up the differences with Catamarans compared to mono hulls?
Sure, here they are in a nutshell...
o
Speed.
Catamarans average about 20% greater passage making speeds.
o
Load Carrying.
Figure approximately 10-15% less load carrying ability--size for size. Our
custom computer program can help determine your new boats capability and
considers each piece of equipment you add. Our engineers will design the systems
to match your requirements. For instance, we might specify a water-maker for
passage making, rather than increasing the size of water tanks. (A side benefit
is that the water doesn't get stagnant when you're only week ending.)
o
Volume. Cats
have about the volume of a 10' larger mono hull. I.E. a 38' Cat has the room and
accommodations of a 48' Mono hull. (A handy fact when planning a Cat charter!)
o
Price. Price
per pound is higher, price per Cubic Foot is lower. (The construction is higher
tech, and the vessel's surface area is greater contributing to higher cost per
foot.
o
Appearance.
I'll leave that to you. They grow on you.
o
Comfort. The
Cat wins hands down. Lighter, airier, more upright sailing. The motion is
different and takes some getting used to, but we've found people that get queasy
below on a mono hull under way, are perfectly fine on a Cat after a few hours of
adjustment.
o
Maneuverability.
A cat is much better under power. Under sail, they handle similarly to a light
displacement mono hull. That is, you need to carve your way through a turn,
rather than throw the helm over. Once you get the hang of it, you'll be able to
tack as easily with a cat as a mono hull right on down to the lightest of air. (You
do have another decision to make though. To take crab/lobster pots to port,
starboard or between the hulls!)
o
Safety. Similar
but different. Most owners really like the invincibility aspect. Both types are
safe when they are good representatives of the designers/builders art, and when
handled by prudent, experienced skippers. Catamarans turn over about as often as
mono hulls sink. However, in almost every case the cats that turned over (and
whose crew(s) were picked up) were racing and pushing the envelope where the
mono hull cruisers might have just as well been cruising.
Monohull or Catamaran? For or a more complete discussion of this subject, go to this link.
The
Bottom line...
I
hope that these ideas have helped you to have a better understanding. Nothing
beats getting out and experiencing the sailing first hand, and that's why we
offer such a large selection in our charter fleet. If you're just out for a
vacation, try one. If you're thinking of owning, our Try-Before-You-Buy program
provides you an opportunity to sail for up to 3 days for free if you later
decide to purchase. In either case, our club program provides equity towards the
purchase when you use it to charter from our participating fleets.
A well sailed cat can make an
excellent choice for a live-aboard or serious cruiser if you choose wisely and
keep the ideas presented here in mind.
Feature: Dagger boards
Positive: At reasonable speeds with water flowing over the foil, you may achieve
higher pointing ability in a relative narrow
steering groove.
What’s wrong with that?
· Recently, a world cruising client said that, " ...(he) had talked to
owners with dagger boards in several ports, and they all said that they tended
to keep the board all the way down almost all of the time. When they tried to
get them up, they were stuck because of the barnacles that had formed around the
boards and inside the trunk where it's difficult to bottom paint, one, and
difficult to clean, two. The result is that they got most of the disadvantages
and none of the advantages.
·
Vulnerability: The dagger board is easily broken by grounding, or floating
debris. On grounding, with the board up, it’s subject to small stones or
shells jamming the board requiring hauling or major diving correction.
Anything done to make the center bottom of the hull increase in lateral
resistance (making it deeper to protect the rudder and prop) takes away from
maneuverability (The boat becomes more like a long keep monohull.) In addition,
assuming the rudder and drive are theoretically protected by making the hull
deeper is done by adding rocker to the hull. Just as the name implies, if
you try to set the boat on it’s bottom it will rock back and can still damage
these aft appendages, not to mention jam debris up the dagger board trunk.
·
The lateral plane with a dagger board is generally about ½-2/3 less less. At
low speeds, with cross winds, with the boards up or down there is little lateral
plane and the boat will tend to blow sideways making it very difficult to
control.
·
FINALLY: While the dagger board theoretically increase upwind performance
slightly, the reality is that a thin foil stalls out very easily compared to the
thicker foil of a typical shoal keel. Once stalled, the performance is worse. An
inattentive helmsman, or an autopilot will probably, on average, under typical
cruising (somewhat laid back) cruising conditions, actually experience worse,
not better performance from dagger boards. If you’re racing and the race
committee enjoys setting up a large proportion of windward courses, and you have
3-4 helmsmen who enjoy steering as you change helmsmen every hour—you may
realize an advantage. If not, enjoy your much easier to handle shoal draft boat.
This
is not to say that boats like the Fountaine Pajot aren’t good performing boats.
When you consider a cruising boat, fully loaded and short handed, (not a racing
crew) they do well. In a recent Arians Cup sponsored by the European Space
industry, there were over 100 cruising cats entered. The race was won by a Bahia
46. Second place was an Athena 38. In fact 8 of the top 15 places were taken by
FP.
In countless cruising races where a variety of boats fun race in a fully
loaded condition, boats with normal catamaran keels, and full hulls with great
load carrying ability--win!
Feature:
Aft, steering stations.
Positive:
You may have slightly better visibility on one side or the other while going to
windward.
What’s wrong with that?
·
If you’re running a
crewed boat and you have a captain who you don’t mind being out of the social
activities and out in the weather outside the Bimini—fine. Otherwise the more
protected steering station with visibility to all 4 corners of the boat makes
more sense.
·
Today’s instruments are interactive. With aft wheels, you either have to
duplicate everything, or put them central somewhere where they’re harder to
see, and even harder to reach. Having everything centrally located at one
steering station makes sense.
·
With a catamaran, we find that the boat is on autopilot a majority of the time.
With a remote on the autopilot, you can sit virtually anywhere you want and
steer the boat. (The latest remotes have a screen which duplicates any read-out
you want to see from depth, to position.) That being the case, you might as well
enjoy a protected steering station and have the ability to sit where ever you
want otherwise.
· Recently,
a world cruising client said that, "...(he) had met the plant manager of a
popular model that comes only with twin aft wheels. The manager was having a one
of their models customized for himself. The primary change? He got rid of the
aft wheel, and put a single wheel against the forward, cockpit bulkhead!"
Enough said.
Feature:
Cabin top with molded in, sloped windows
Positive:
Some people like the look.
What’s wrong with that?
Everyone
hates the heat build up in the main saloon. A boat with more vertical shielded
windows enjoys a 10 degree temperature advantage when the sun is high. It also
protects the interior from fading and sun exposure.
With the
Greenhouse style windows you let the heat and light in and typically end up
coving the windows most of the time, defeating one of the main advantages of
cats—an open, airy main saloon with 360 degree visibility!
Feature:
Aero rig
Positive:
Easy to single hand and handle
What’s wrong with that?
A
catamaran places huge loads on the hull. Much larger than is placed on a
monohull because of the tremendous inherent stability. With a monohull, for
instance, when a puff hits, the hull leans over relieving some of the loads.
With a catamaran, all of the loads are not only transferred to the hull, they
come as a shock load with an enormous initial impact.
What’s great about the normal cat rig, is that you have a wide angle for the
shrouds which translate much of the forces to the strongest part of the hull
directly. Now you are sharing the loads on the cross beam and the hull.
With the aero-rig, everything is transferred to the area of the cross beam, and
in a catamaran, you don’t have the height between the bottom of the hull and
deck as you do in a monohull to distribute the cantilever loads.
Bottom line? A catamaran is a poor candidate for the Aero rig and as the
size gets larger, the loads go up exponentially so this applies in spades.
Secondly, I’ve personally been witness to side by side comparisons and the
Aero rig simply does not have the same performance or versatility as a
conventional rig. Yes you can get most manufacturers to install it if you insist—check
to see if they’ll still offer the same structural warranty though?
Feature: Narrow and or asymmetrical hulls.
Positive: Slightly better performance when kept light.
What’s wrong with that?
Today’s
modern voyager is not going sailing light. Once you add the water, fuel,
amenities and the kitchen sink—that narrower hull will be sunk below it’s
waterline and will probably have less performance and, as important less
maneuverability (the extra lateral plane created resists turning at slow speeds
making for difficult maneuvering.
Look
at load carrying first and examine what you’re planning to put aboard. If that
includes Generator, A/C, and other amenities, you better make sure you have
sufficient load carrying ability. Better check with the designer.
Want
a short cut test?
On a boat about 38’ or over, the double berths ought to fit inside the hulls
and not need to be up high (where they’re hot, also) over the bridge deck
because the hulls are too narrow. Check it out!!!
A second test? When loaded, we recently sailed a FP 46 with full tanks,
Gen and A/C and all the amenities with 15 guests. At 10 knots, neither stern was
underwater! Look at pictures or go out on the boat and see if this holds true
for the boat you’re considering. Look
at our new boat web page www.bayacht.com/new.htm
and click on each of our boats to find out the load carrying
In countless cruising
races where a variety of boats fun race in a fully loaded condition, boats with
normal catamaran keels, and full hulls with great load carrying ability--win!
The Fountaine Pajot range is a good example and has done extraordinarily well in
these kinds of contests.
Another
thing you should know when you hear about performance variations--especially
when people have seen the performance of charter boats: Catamarans are extremely
sensitive to bottom fouling. Even a slight bit of slime can appreciably degrade
performance, and I've seen boats with quite a lot of slime and a little moss
lose 30-40% of their performance, and totally lose the ability to tack without
using their engine! Perhaps this is why you hear such wild claims and divergent
results. Be sure everyone's comparing apples with apples. When you hear these
statements, perhaps a good question is: "Do you know for a fact, that the
bottoms of both boats in question had absolutely clean bottoms?" Without
the answer to this question, relative comparisons are meaningless--yet gleefully
offered by those protecting their own prejudices.
More information: Eric Smith 410-263-2311 esmith@bayacht.com
NOTE: This information represents the personal opinion of the writer. Bay
Yacht Agency and/or its agents makes no claim as to the usefulness or accuracy
of this information and urges the reader to verify any facts that he desires
validated with an appropriate authority. The drawings used are all original
drawings and are not meant to represent any actual boats unless their name is
given. The reference to Bad Cat, does not mean a bad boat, but rather bad (or at
least not the best choice) for the specific purpose of offshore sailing. As you
might imagine there are lots of shades of gray in-between, but some
manufacturers obviously slant their boats specifically towards being good
for offshore sailing. When you look at the Fountaine Pajots and Lagoon Cats that
we represent, I think that you will find this to be true.
Our
family of companies includes relationships with a number of independently owned,
quality charter management companies. Bay Yacht Agency sells boats into their
programs and then has LetsGoCruising manage the relationships with the owners,
management companies and Charterers. If you're interested in chartering, this
approach offers you superior, privately owned and managed boats with the most
requested luxury features at the lowest cost possible.
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can save on your cruising vacation, and even earn credits towards an eventual
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2.
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on average boats doesn't mean anything. Our boats are new and more luxuriously
equipped than others and, we also broker charters anywhere.
3.
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